Outdoor bouldering is often what a lot of climbers spending time in the climbing gym or training at home looking forward to. Whether that be to send their project, to spend some quality time with friends or just be out with nature.
We are going to take into account a few factors when reviewing some of the best bouldering locations in the UK.
- Number of routes
When going to a location most climbers won’t just focus exclusively on one project and will spend several hours there. Therefore, a location with plenty of different routes is the first factor that we will consider. - Variety of grades
Not everyone climbs the same grade or has the same strengths. A good variety of grades is also really useful when in comes to warming up for sending that project. Therefore, a location with a good variety of grades along with plenty of different styles will score well for this factor. - Ease of access
This one is a bit more subjective. Some climbers love the sensation of being completely isolated however for the purpose of this scoring we are looking for somewhere that is easily accessible from a city/town/village.
Ok now onto the list, in no particular order…
Langdale Boulders
Langdale Boulders is located in the Lake District near Elterwater Slate Quarry and Lake Grasmere and boasts 57 different boulder problems ranging from V0 to V11.
There rhyolite rocks feature a variety of types of problems including traverses, slabs and overhangs requiring plenty of different skills such as side pulls, crimps and mantels.
This location is also a site of archaeological interest with engravings likely dating back to Late Neolithic or Bronze Age.
It is worth noting this location is busiest around April and May and although there is a layby next to the location this is often busy and parking is available down the road at Chapel Stile.
Number of routes ★★☆☆☆
Variety of grades ★★★☆☆
Ease of access ★★★★★
Dumbarton
Dumbarton, affectionally known as ‘Dumby’, is widely regarded as the home of bouldering in Scotland.
You really are spoilt for choice with over 300 boulders and grades going up to 8B+ (V14).
On top of that Dumbarton is home to some real classic hard boulders including King Kong (8B), Pogo Sit Start (8A) and In Bloom (7C+).
This crag tends to be most popular from April through to June however it really is great all year round.
The basalt rock really does make for some great problems and iconic scenery.
Number of routes ★★★★★
Variety of grades ★★★★★
Ease of access ★★★☆☆
Bonehill Rocks
Bonehill Rocks is probably some of the best granite to climb not just in the UK but the world.
Located in Dartmoor, this granite crag boasts grades right up to 8B (V13) and is surrounded by stunning scenery.
The crag is pretty busy all year round but the summer months, particularly when the whether is good, really pull in the crowds.
This is the perfect location to bring a group of different abilities with a decent spread of boulders across all grades.
Number of routes ★★★★☆
Variety of grades ★★★★☆
Ease of access ★★★☆☆
Kyloe In The Woods
Kyloe in the woods, sometimes shortened to Kyloe In, is a collection of sandstone crags near the Northumberland coastline.
Kyloe In features some iconic lines including Hitchhikers Guide To The Galaxy (7A+) and the somewhat easier Bad Company (5+).
That’s not to say Kyloe In doesn’t have it’s share of hard problems with Monk Life graded at 8B+.
The spread of grades is really well distributed so there truly is something for everyone.
Number of routes ★★★☆☆
Variety of grades ★★★★★
Ease of access ★★★★☆
Carrock Fell
Located in the lake district, Carrock Fell is home to a wide range of gabbro rock boulders.
Carrock Fell is home to some great routes including Space Jam (8A+) and Badger Attack (V5).
You certainly won’t be short on problems with a range across all grades on offer.
The scenery is genuinely spectacular and with peak popularity coming in April.
Number of routes ★★★☆☆
Variety of grades ★★★★☆
Ease of access ★★★★☆